Gen Z Says is a bimonthly column chronicling the latest trends in fashion and beauty through the eyes of Who What Wear's Gen Z editors. Expect to be able to shop and download style choices directly from tastemakers, up-and-coming designers, and trend-setting generations.
As a Gen Zer and self-proclaimed TikTok expert (my screen time experience bears that out), I know that buzzwords like “looking rich” and “quiet luxury” are still relevant today. I can say with authority that you are adding fuel to the fire within the algorithm. The biggest Y2K trends of the past two years have been synonymous with the typical Gen Z look, but as of late, this generation has replaced funky prints and micro-mini hemlines with more modest, wearable styles. And it seems. Celebrities like Sofia Richie Grainge and Jasmine Tookes are leading the charge, and It girls like Kylie Jenner are ditching the glitz in favor of an era of sophisticated minimalism. (TikTok creator and strategist Tarillo Maconi, who often explores the deeper connections between fashion and economics, calls this Jenner's “riching of Sophia.”) As a result, Abercrombie & Fitch Gen Z-targeted brands like , have been completely rebranded to focus on understated pieces. Oversized blazers, tailored pants, etc.
With this industry-wide change comes the usual amount of backlash, but most of it is directed at the people taking the trend and working with it, rather than the brands profiting from it or the celebrities promoting it. I am. Videos of users imitating Richie Grainge's style or referencing rich aesthetics have been met with critical comments and questions about why their generation feels the need to categorize everything. You will receive it. Hypebeast even questioned whether this new style was “sucking the fun out of fashion.”
We understand the confusion that comes with changing styles.Why a group? If you were once obsessed with bright colors and print-heavy brands like House of Sunny and Marc Jacobs' Heaven, are you suddenly interested in wearing basics? Some might say this is no surprise since TikTok users try to follow whatever is trending on social media. However, if we look at history, I would argue that there are many other complicating factors at play in this equation.
According to an article about the 2009 recession published in harvard business review, post-recession consumers increased their demand for simplicity. Co-authors Paul Flutters and Michael Willmott write: “Economic downturns cause stress and generally increase people's desire for simplicity.” “Even before this recession, many consumers were overwhelmed by the amount of choice and 24/7 connectivity and were starting to simplify.” This is a micro-trend we've seen on TikTok over the past year. (Barbie Core, Mermaid Core, the list goes on) may be comparable to the explosion of Gen Z consumers who were overwhelmed and turned to a cleaner palette to drown out the noise.
in the fashion cycle teeth Now that the internet is moving faster than ever, you can't blame young people for just figuring things out, especially for kids who are growing up in an age where it's completely immersive. “You're going to talk about things in a way that creates some kind of community and has a buzz-oriented energy around it.” Makoni says. ”In the 2000s, in the age of print media and longer attention spans, things were packaged in '.gossip girl style” or “grunge” and that was totally cool and fine. With the proliferation of information at everyone's disposal, we need a “nucleus” and something to bring it together to clarify what we are saying. How do we sift through it? ”
The need to categorize things into packaged aesthetics (the coreization of fashion) is not entirely Gen Z’s fault. After Phoebe Philo took over her management of Celine in 2008, she became an influential figure in post-recession fashion.The emphasis on simple clothing has become labeled as “normcore” or “recessioncore.” As her exit approaches, celine, maximalism was on the rise again, as Alessandro Michele sent Gucci's sales skyrocketing with his generous use of whimsical prints, glitter, and ruffles. In our annual Gen Z report, we surveyed 200 people under the age of 25 and found Gucci ranked last among their favorite luxury brands, reflecting their current fashion trends. evidence of a change in interest. And although Michele took Gucci's sales to unparalleled heights, she stepped down as creative director this year, and the brand has since launched its Fall/Winter 23 collection, packed with more wearable looks. It's all a click.
Gucci 21 Fall/Winter Season and Gucci 23 Fall/Winter Season
Celine F/W 11
Yes, Gen Z is leaning toward minimalism. But why is simplicity now considered a luxury when it wasn't in previous times of economic decline? These simple pieces reflect the current state of luxury brands, but logo-less The Row bags and Khaite jeans aren't necessarily what you think of when you think of luxury. During the '90s and the 2009 recession, this look was called the “standard” and was typical of the lower classes. The difference between now and then is that the 2020 pandemic stripped us of control and agency. In 2009, the recession was blamed on consumption and the reckless behavior of people on Wall Street, and social disdain for the wealthy was widespread. (According to the results of the public opinion poll, atlantic, Most Americans supported the Occupy Wall Street movement. ) While 2020 was not the peak of economic apocalypse, it did raise emotional awareness, especially for young people who graduated and started their careers during the pandemic.
Maconi explains how similar discreet consumption methods fall into different categories. “In 2020, we were being invited into people's homes via Zoom calls and social media, so the idea of being crammed into a tiny house and seeing another person frolicking in a cottage that clearly wasn't a cottage. was something else,” Makoni said. “Celebrities were talking about being trapped in huge mansions. That creates a kind of twisted labyrinth for Gen Z, along with the inflation crisis, political unrest, war, the crackdown on women's bodies, and the looming… I think it's a combination of things like the coming recession.'' ”
From there, quiet luxury doesn't seem all that surprising. For a generation thrust into the private, ultra-comfortable lives of the wealthy during the pandemic, it's a transcendental possession. You think, “This person has a lot of money and can do whatever he wants. I want that too.”
Young people no longer have the impression that being rich is terrible. After witnessing the disparities caused by the pandemic, it has become clear that the wealthiest people have the most. RRather than wanting to retreat from a rich aesthetic or lifestyle, they are exploring it now, hoping to leave behind the past hardships they faced during the coronavirus pandemic and embrace a more luxurious future with fewer worries. is. “Wealth is no longer about seven Range Rovers and a yacht,” Makoni explains. “You can be in a gorgeous cabin in the middle of a forest or a farm and no one will talk to you. There are so many ways to get around. [wealth].What they have in common is that they have the capital to do it. [whatever you want]. Sure, quiet luxury is minimalism and brings to mind the same codes as normcore, but we're not exactly hating on the rich right now.why do we envy them [money] We'll give them… If we want that, of course we're going to emulate it. So it becomes a quiet luxury and no longer normcore. Because no one wants to be normal anymore. ”
It's understandable why Richie Grainge has become an influential figure in his mission to elevate Gen Z's style. She offers a high level of desire and authenticity. completely Shows who she is. “Richie touches all the chords that we care about. She's relatable and ambitious. She doesn't overshare. She doesn't have enough access to be fully her.” So we're picking up clues about her,” Maconi says. “She's an old-school influencer in the sense that she didn't have a lot of access to people with AMAs (ask me anything) and they were just [a] “Despite wearing Chanel and Kite, there's a relatable essence to her style that still feels accessible. The problem with other celebrities who dress incredibly well is that they are not 'average wearable' [financial] means. You can go to J.Crew, Zara, or Mango to recreate Richie's outfit,” explains Sofia. Makoni.
I'm not denying the idea that Gen Z shouldn't be more conscious of their consumption. There is also hope that their current focus on minimal fashion will slow down the trend cycle. However, fashion reactions to world conditions are always present, and the creation of cultural aesthetics involves psychological and economic influences. Everything is more connected than we really think. It's easy to blame the younger generation, but this cycle will continue. Everyone involved in fashion will leave, but Gen Z will repeat the trends of the past. This is exactly how a cookie crumbles.
Items that define the trend:
1. Sophisticated maxi skirt
Micro-minis aren't completely ignored, but they're pushed aside in favor of long column skirts.
pixie market
Nia White Maxi Skirt
2. Oversized blazer
Millennials are already quick to compare Gen Z's love of business casual clothing to the mid-2000s, when everyone wore blazers to the club. they are not wrong. This time, however, the fit is a little more relaxed and subdued, with neutral tones taking precedence. Although the tailoring is timeless, the desired fit and silhouette are sure to change with the trend cycle.
H&M
double breasted jacket
frankie shop
bear crepe blazer
Abercrombie & Fitch
classic suit blazer
3.Puddle pants
To avoid looking too formal, relaxed pants add a casual, subtle touch to outfits with more sophisticated pieces.
waif
exposed waistband pants
4. Logoless handbag
Having the best handbag doesn't mean having the one with the biggest or brightest logo. Instead, it's all about the bag's subtle, stylish elements.
J.Crew
berkeley bucket bag
charles & keith
Black Micro Core Square Push Lock Bag
mango
padlock mini shopper
5. Ballet shoes
Sky high heels are not what you imagine when you think of a luxurious look. Classic ballet shoes are all the rage these days.
Jeffrey Campbell
arabesque ballet flats