After years of fighting for visibility, Mexico's indigenous weavers have had their work thrust into the spotlight by two women leading the country's presidential campaign.
Brightly colored and intricately embroidered clothing, handcrafted by generations of artisans, has long fascinated visitors to Mexico. These include international designers whose use of motifs has sparked accusations of plagiarism.
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A lover of indigenous design is now all but certain to become Mexico's first female president, but the prominence of traditional costumes in election campaigns has stirred mixed feelings among their makers. ing.
“It's important that we don't just wear it as a costume or to attract attention,” said Trinidad Gonzalez, 55, a weaver in the community of El Mellei, Hidalgo state in central Mexico. .
Opposition candidate Xochitl Gálvez, an outspoken indigenous businessman and senator, has been wearing traditional dress since entering politics more than 20 years ago.
Claudia Sheinbaum, a former Mexican mayor who is leading the campaign on behalf of the ruling party, has also worn indigenous designs during her campaign, including at her campaign launch.
“It's very positive that Mexican textiles are taking center stage in the political arena,” said anthropologist Marta Tulloch.
But according to Andrés Vidal, a social anthropologist at the National Autonomous University of Mexico, the choice of clothing is also part of the “election game.”
Gonzalez's mother, Martina Cruz, is 83 years old and still continues to weave using techniques passed down through generations.
She is pleased to see the traditional costumes worn by presidential candidates, especially Mr. Galvez, who is also from Hidalgo.
“I love it,” Cruz said as she weaved the garment, which takes up to eight months to make and sells for the equivalent of $1,000.
Painter Frida Kahlo was the first internationally known Mexican to wear indigenous costumes, popular art expert Tulloch said.
In politics, the pioneer was Maria Esther Zuno, wife of Luis Echeverría, who served as president from 1970 to 1976.
“Mexican politics is a reflection of society,” Tulloch said.
Politicians were once “embarrassed” to wear indigenous costumes, she recalled, but this reflected broader issues of “discrimination and racism”.
But gradually indigenous designs gained popularity and fame. It may now be worth thousands of dollars.
As a senator, Gálvez championed Huipil Day, to be celebrated on March 7 in honor of traditional embroidered blouses.
“Never negotiate the price of huipil with indigenous women,” the politician said in one of his videos, in which he showed off traditional blouses, including those of Tulloch. Some silk blouses cost up to $5,000, according to the magazine.
Sheinbaum, the granddaughter of Bulgarian and Lithuanian Jewish immigrants, also has a collection of indigenous clothing given to her on tour, campaign officials said.
Several major foreign clothing brands have been accused by Mexico of cultural appropriation of indigenously-inspired designs, but Tulloch doesn't see candidates' use of huipil in the same way. he said.
“Cultural appropriation is taking textiles to other countries for reproduction,” she said.
“If you start saying who can wear it and who can't wear it, it's going to be an endless conversation,” Tulloch added.
Vidal sees the use of indigenous clothing as a way for politicians to connect with voters. “One way to reach them is to create symbiosis through the use of certain types of clothing,” he said.
The election fashion parade brought new customers to Alfonso Giron's store in Mexico City. “They say, 'I'm looking for the clothes I saw the candidate wear on TV,'” he says.
But in reality, every huipil is unique, Gillon added.
